You can have the greatest suit in the world, however if it doesn’t fit it won’t look as good.
This is the first part of our three part special on how to wear a suit like a true gentleman, and make sure you look your best!
This first part will be a guide on buying a suit and what to look for when trying on suits to ensure that they fit you right and compliment your frame.
Lets start with the jacket…
Shoulders
When wearing a suit jacket the shoulder pads should end with your shoulders… Sounds simple right?
Things to look out for are shoulder pads which are overhanging and drooping over the end of your shoulders, this means the jacket is too big!
Also, if your jacket has small dimples and creases around the end of your shoulders it probably means it is too tight and you need a bigger size.
Buttons
The position of your buttons in relation to your navel are crucial when buying a suit because you don’t want the suit jacket to make your torso look too long or too short.
If your suit jacket has two buttons then the top button should not be below your navel, and if you have a three button jacket then once again, the top and middle button must not be below your navel.
Sleeves
A jacket sleeve should be the right length so that 1/2 an inch of the shirt cuff is visible. The actual sleeve of the jacket should not be so tight that it restricts movement and not so baggy that your arm waves around freely inside. The ideal jacket sleeve will follow the shape of your arm and leave a clean silhouette of your arm. You do not want a big gap between the sleeve of your shirt and inside of your suit jacket, as this will usually mean the sleeves are too baggy.
Collar
Your suit jacket should sit close to your collar, the gap between the collar of your shirt and the collar of your suit is known as the “Collar gap;” this term is used to describe a poorly fitted suit.
The collar of your jacket should go roughly halfway up the collar of your shirt, so that some but not all of the shirt collar is visible.
Front
The lapels of the jacket should sit comfortably without being too tight and pulling when you move around, but you don’t want them to be too baggy either. With the jacket fastened you should be able to slide your hand inside the jacket comfortably without it pulling.
When the jacket is buttoned if the lapels form an ‘X’ then this means that the jacket is too tight and you need a bigger size!
To avoid the boxy look when wearing a suit jacket you should ensure that the jacket is tapered at the waist to compliment your V shape.
Length
Judging the length of a jacket can be difficult but the main thing is that the suit jacket should completely cover your butt! Another useful guide is to lay your hands flat by your side, your jacket should end in line with the knuckles on your hand.
And the trousers…
Your trousers should have roughly one inch of break at the bottom, however it is currently in fashion to have trousers which are cropped. This is a hard look to pull off but does look great when accomplished, if you are going to attempt to pull off the cropped trousers look make sure your trousers are well fitted and not baggy, especially at the ankles!
One look which is never in style is baggy and long trousers! Ensure your trousers are the perfect length not creasing at the bottom with layers of material.
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Author: Dillan Patel
I am a fashion enthusiast and the head of fashion at Bon Vita. My vision is to spread Good Vibes Only #GVO through the faculty of fashion.
I believe that looking good plays a critical role in feeling good; when you feel good you’re in a better state of mind to manifest your desires!
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